Block Cutting Lures

Wire

 

Here we go everything depends on the wire, hard wire is best, you will know when you got good wire, you will be able to break tags of with ease, soft wire will give you no end of trouble when trying to break tags off, as I have 5kg of 1mm diameter SS316L Si wire, made in Korea and one would think all wires are the same for the branding, well I've learnt not so, lucky I got it on special $130 for 5kg, but I've since worked out how to break it without sharp edges. Trick is do the loops and wraps, then slightly pinch the tag with side cutters and then twist the wire in a circular motion and the wire should snap. Yes I can snap it using the method below by holding the tag close to the shaft, but it is different from doing it on the lure itself.  Now when buying the wire, good welding outlets you can buy 1.2mm wire per piece, kg, or 5kg packet, 1mm wire they don't normally do it as it a hard sell item, sometimes it’s an attitude thing when dealing with some people, if they do sell by piece, make sure you take circlip pliers, looping pliers and an ordinary set of pliers with you, buy a couple pieces and do a loop and wrap and see how the tag breaks off, do it for 1 and 1.2mm wire that way you can judge the good wire from wire that is going to give you problems. Look for SS316L Si wire.

 

The other points I would like to make when dealing with wire, wear eye protection, use enough length of wire to complete the task at hand, and if something goes south no wire can reach our eyes, remember eyes are only once.

The other point being I use a stepped looping pliers, I looked them up and at $29 dollars for them is a bit rude in my books, so look around some bead shops, maybe a good craft shop will order them for you at a cheaper price. The other alternative is to buy a cheap pair if straight circlip pliers, $9 dollars last time I bought a pair, mark the diameters for the loop eye you want, score the inside and outside, with a small triangular or round file, even a hack saw, just small smooth nicks to hold the wire steady (so not to damage the wire), outside marks are just a visual thing to line your wire up with the inside marks. With the markings you will have consistent loops as well. Now that you have some sort off functional tool, lets hook into it.

 

Loop and wrap to determine what type of wire you have, soft or hard ?

 

1

Place the wire into the stepping/lopping pliers and push the Shaft end down. Wrapping post facing up. For clarification the tag end will be the short end, and  the long section will be the shaft end unless stated.

2

After pushing the shaft end down your wire should look something like this.

3

Wrap the tag end around the looping pliers post.

4

Wire form looks like this.

5

Just rotate the wire form so the tag end comes to rest against the pliers jaws, then push the tag end down until it is parallel with the shaft. For me I back it off slightly once I hit the bending post.

6

Wire form looks like this. This is one continuous step to this point without removing the wire from the looping pliers .

7

Place the loop into the jaws and bend the tag end up slightly, then begin to wrap the wire around the shaft.  Now a good tip, when making wire forms or whatever, teach yourself to push wire, not pull it and you will notice how well and tidy your work will turn out and besides it’s a lot safer once you understand what is going on at the wire in relation to your body.

8

Wire form looks like this, also bend the wire tag as to the photo, this is now our gripping tag.

9

Grip the V section off the tag end and twist it down towards the wire shaft, if it is good wire it will snap nice and clean no ragged sharp edges, if the wire is soft it will just bend without snapping.

Note where I have stopped with the wraps, this is where it will snap or close, it is important in the wiring bibs up.

10

Final result, wire snapped nicely, now you have an idea on how I test wire for bib tow points.

Lure Tow Wire.

 

11

This is just an example, just jammed a bib into this lure for a demo, so image its finished, without the hooks off course, (don't wire up with hooks on the lure) another tip here is to have the front hole of the bib larger than the back. Here I laid the stepping pliers between the two holes to determine the size of the loop (middle post). Now go back to the beginning of this section how to form a loop otherwise I will have too many photos.

12

Loop formed and inserted into the bib, shaft goes through the back hole and the tag end through the front hole.

13

Grip the loop at the top of the bib, bend the tag wire up slightly then begin to wrap, remember pushing  is better than pulling wire. You will probably have to manipulate the wire over some lure styles, also if you a concerned about scratching the bib up on the top use some form of material between the bib and pliers until you are up to speed.

14

You stop the wraps in a position to break that tag off without doing any damage to the paint. Three wraps will give you two and a half wraps on the shaft, when you snap the wire.  Remember, pull the tag down towards the shaft , re-read the top section if you are lost.

15

The wire should lay across the bib like this, sometimes I make them higher.

16

Turn the looping pliers over, (wrapping post on the bottom), Place your finger under the wire shaft and bend it up towards your body, without missing a beat wrap the new tag end around the wrapping post then rest the tag end on the jaws and bend it back parallel with the shaft.

17

Tow wire  looks like this. Now make the final wraps and break the tag.

 

18

Finished.

Lots of photos hope I've explained it enough. Used wire longer in this tutorial so adjust everything  as you learn, just subtract what you can manage from the length of wire.

It is not hard it's just practice.

 

so that's how its done?!,

Pete, great post and info/pics. I think this wire tow point part is definitely worthy of a seperate post and would ask if you could post a new topic with description name and I will move the post across ( as well as keep it here). I need you to post the new topic so it is under your name.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to put this info up for the members. I can't solder well at all so you method appeals to me.

Thanks for all you effort to post such detailed step by step info. You make it look easy with your skills.

Thanks Tincan
A lot of time and effort here in helping others
I've always wanted to try this
I hope I get to buy you a cold one day for doing this
Cheers Rick