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lead lures

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kdalton View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 Nov 2014 at 11:31am
first time on the forum.im going to make some lead lures.im going to make the mould of a spanyid raider lure.but I have a problem the ends of the lure are 2mm thick which I think the wire eyelets are not going to be thin enough for the lead to cover the eyelets enough.im thinking can I put stainless grommets you know the ones what are on canvas tarps for tie down points but a lot smaller.has anyone used these before.any advice would be great .thanks
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kdalton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kdalton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2014 at 12:07pm
or can I just put the split rings straight into the lead lure or will the split rings wear out the lead holes quickly. cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horrorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2014 at 4:55pm
The holes will quickly wear out or break through. You will be better off making a wire harness that runs through the body for a hook and and a tow point at each ends.
Martin-

you don't havta be pretty to fish
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steiny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov 2014 at 4:58pm
As Martin said...once piece wire is the go for lead jigs.
cheers steiny
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kdalton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kdalton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2014 at 10:15am
what type lead do I use to cast the lures.and can I add another alloy to the lead to make the lead lighter in weight.thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horrorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2014 at 2:37pm
I have always found the wheel balancing weights, which is an alloy, to pour easier- less deformities. I don't know what it's mixed with so I don't know what metal you can melt with it. But I don't think you can alloy it with another metal enough to make much of a weight difference, plus it would take a lot more heat as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kdalton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2014 at 8:01pm
anymore hints.come on guys put your word in.thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gottsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec 2014 at 9:26pm
I,ve tried   lead  copies of lures and no matter  which lead mix you have its too heavy and minimizes the original action. I bought a lead lure mold and bent up my own stainless through wires. If you only want Raider types only I'd try making metal slices such as 1/2 by 1/4's etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Screamingreel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 5:44am
The locals speak very highly on this lure, has a great action, and from photographs has caught up to a 14lb trout .

Straight eye for the hook is best, and we dug a little of the material out of the rear end for it to sit snugly Size 8-10 trout hooks   appears the go.

Only tried it on one trip but impressed with the action. Would be dynamite on schools of sea fish

The best part about the lure that it is small I understand that  an engineer designed the mould

I thing those wheel balancing leads were used , more shine, and slightly less weight in the lure, provided a better action.


Regards John


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horrorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2014 at 7:19am
This is one of the 2 molds I bought for making lead slugs. There are 2 different sizes with these molds - Seahorse brand. They come with wire inserts but the price they charge for replacement inserts you will save a bundle making them yourself. 
If the molds are too cold when pouring the lead, the lead will solidify before it reaches all of the extremities of the mold -deformed lures. If the mold is too hot you will have a lot of feathering as the lead works it's way between the 2 halves.
I keep a bucket of water nearby to help regulate the temperature of the molds which is worked out by trial and error. But make sure the molds are completely dry before pouring the lead in otherwise the water will boil and spit out the molten lead from the pour hole like a volcano.

Martin-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kdalton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2014 at 5:59pm
ive made moulds out of casting powder,ive made heaps of gillies and all rounder lures.but the raider lures are made of a brass alloy which I cant melt on a gas ring .so I need some sort of lead alloy which is lighter than lead.but I have found lead tin and cambium which is the same weight as brass.thanks for all your imputs.cheers
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