LURELOVERS™ Australian Fishing Lure Community Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Lure Making > The Luremakers Shed
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Polyeurathane Rubber

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Lycan View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 06 Apr 2014
Location: Rochester - Vic
Status: Offline
Points: 255
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lycan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Polyeurathane Rubber
    Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 2:14pm
Yep still grounded and bored, so have another question :

Has anyone used the CCM95 polyurethane rubber from aldax for moulding purposes ?

I had been using a elastosil 4670 but its only has a shore of 55, and was looking for something firmer so could use less rubber whilst maintaining rigididty when halves are clamped together.


At a $100 odd per experiment the wife loses patience rather quickly.

Cheers
Steve
Living outside of the square means never having to sit in the corner
Back to Top
Doc View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Jan 2013
Location: Port Macquarie
Status: Offline
Points: 258
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 12:13am
Using poly urathane for moulds has a few hazards
1,epoxy, acrylics, and poly urethane will stick to your moulds if you miss an area with moulds release
2,most urethane have short pot life before gelling
3, The elastic index is 30 to 40% less than most silicones unless you use oven cured PU and these tend to be more expensive

If you use backing boards each side,(malamine coated 12mm chip board) This will help reduce the thickness of your moulds to 5mm from the widest point of your lure So a lure that is 20mm at its widest point will give you a mould thickness of 30mm

I use the tapered necks of crown larger bottles I fill the cap end with 10mm of putty or plastcine tie a thin wire to the rear eyelet of the lure to stop it from floating up when I fill it with silicone I use an old bottle cutter from the late 70's to mark the bottles then heat around the scribe mark with a candle then pour some cold water around the scribe mark and the bottle cracks off nice and clean then sandpaper the sharp edges. Cones have the advantage when the silicone shrink it slides further down the tapered neck hence the 10 to 20mm of putty in the bottom

I remove the putty when the silicone is cured then push the mould out with my little finger. I run just one cut along the belly of the lure and remove the positive do not cut into the hole the wire left behind when the positive was removed this where I inject my PU foam from the bottom up

Hope this helps in saving you some silicone
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.