2 Part urethane lures - the easy way |
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Posted: 27 Sep 2011 at 1:13pm |
Thought I might start a thread on the way I've been making my little 60mm minnows using 2 part polyurethane bodies and 2 part RTV silicon molds.
First, start with: Assemble mold halve with wire and bib in place on one side Assemble mold halves together and add clamps Measure part A and B as per instructions (usually 50:50 with most PU's - except foaming types) Add Microballoons or other additives Mix well Add pigment if required and mix well again Pour into spru hole and check for leaks Wait required time and open mold. Add split rings and hooks and enjoy! This sequence takes me about 5min from go to pouring (add another 2 or 3 for wire insert and cutting bib), and another 20min to demould so it's very quick. RTV silicon doesn't require any release agent for PU's so no wasting time waiting for it to dry With a bit of creativity, multi colored lures are possible Of course, from here you can easily add eyes, paint patterns or scales etc. I'm also experimenting with adding glitter as well as a clear resin. This stuff (and I think most/all non foaming 2 part PU's) are heavier than water, so I'm trialling inserting polystyrene balls/balsa/capsules to create various weights for floating, suspending and sinking types. Wrattles can be glued to the wire insert too before pouring. The sinking ones have a nice flutter as they sink, and cast like a bullet - much further than commercial plastic/balsa types like Rapala etc. There are various hardnesses of PU available, from quite soft up to bowling ball type strength/hardness. This is just el cheapo so I'm relying on the through wire for strength as I think a twisted wire or bib with line attachment will just pull out, though I'm sure there are better PU's that would allow either/both. A quick dab of vaseline will enable the bib to be pulled out so other shapes can be tried if made from the same material. I've been using the PU to coat wooden plugs to give it a waterproof coating in about 30min so I can test swim it assembled with bib and hooks before giving it a nice finish with primer filler and a final paint job sanded down to 1000# wet and dry for the mold. Steve |
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puglee62
Stall Holder Fugly Lures Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Location: ipswich Status: Offline Points: 7939 |
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good little article you posted up here Steve,very helpful indeed
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barneyminno
LureLovers.com Fanatic Deep River Lures Joined: 19 Apr 2011 Location: Esk. QLD Status: Offline Points: 1689 |
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Wow!! Thats just amazing! Had no idea it was so simple!
Very clear and instructive post Steve
Anthony.
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Jeff
LureLovers.com Fanatic Joined: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Gulgong NSW Status: Offline Points: 1613 |
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How do we make the mold ?
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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It's not that much more difficult.
I will take some photos next time I do one (hopefully soonish) but if you're interested in advance, there is a good article from Larry Dahlberg for a 2 part mold here (I just added some wire guides to help keep the wire insert in the right place) - http://www.makelure.com/HowTos/Swim%20Whiz%202%20Piece.pdf and a great video for doing a 1 part mold from him here - http://www.youtube.com/embed/FOpUy4GJJ8U I picked up the PU from my local pattern maker for ~$40/L - I bought 1/2L for $20 and he threw in a cup or two of Aluminium powder for free (normally $15/kg). That's about the same price as through Barnes and other modelling shops, though they do have more choices and are probably better suited to doing lures, I just like having this on hand so I don't have to pay heaps for postage or wait ages to get to the big smoke. The silicon is Ultrasil from Barnes and cost me $50/kg from memory. These little minnows take about 6mL of resin plus a teaspoon or so of microballons and the mold is about 50 - 60mL of silicon so they certainly are cheap! Steve |
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Nicho
Stall Holder Nichos Maulers Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Location: POMONA QLD Status: Offline Points: 8752 |
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god this making lures just keeps going, where does it end!
good post, good to see a basic insite of how to do this. cheers Jas |
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Nichos Maulers Homemade timber lures....THEY CATCH FISH!
YA DONT KNOW...IF YA DONT GO...SO GET OUT THERE AND... FISH IT |
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puglee62
Stall Holder Fugly Lures Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Location: ipswich Status: Offline Points: 7939 |
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ultrasil is great stuff i use it all the time ,have you tried barnes pinky sil Steve?,ive been thinking of trying it ,
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Nah, I got the Ultrasil because it was cheaper I've seen other guys using it for this, so know it works fine too. At some stage I will do the reverse, i.e. PU 2 piece mold and RTV silicon "hardbody" lure, hopefully it will have the same action, but feel a bit softer on missed fish so I/fishing buddy can get another shot. I've done a search, but not found anyone who's done this though - can anyone point me in the direction of someone that has? Steve |
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Jeff
LureLovers.com Fanatic Joined: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Gulgong NSW Status: Offline Points: 1613 |
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Thanx flyonline , I think this will be my next project
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Bad Dad
Unverified New Member Joined: 20 Jun 2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Do you need to etch the Polyurethane to get the paint to adhere to it, or can you use normal enamel/acrylic paints. I have been using a two part PU system which demoulds with the use of a silicon spray and have a bugger of a time getting paint to adhere to it, even after thorough cleaning.
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I'm not completely sure on this, I've been using Duplicolor rattle cans which sticks like to a blanket on epoxies, but so far it's not adhering really well as you say. I've also tried some airbrush enamel and likewise, though I have some acrylic to try and as none of these have had clear over that, I'm hoping that will hold it all together. Failing that, I might try doing some painting in the mold before pouring the PU - this works excellently with epoxies and is very difficult to get off once cured. It will mean I lose the 30min turn around as you have to let the paint cure 24hrs before laying (pouring in this case) up. At the very least, the pigments work really well anyway so I might just be limited to whatever I can create color/pattern wise with the resin. I pulled a clear epoxy one this morning, looks really clear though I did pick up a few airbubbles despite de-gassing the resin before pouring. Shrimp/prawn anyone Steve |
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Google
Unverified New Member Joined: 13 Oct 2010 Status: Offline Points: 131 |
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MAte have a go at the acrylic model car body paints (the ones that they spray the shells for petrol RC cars) using a plastic primer like the 3M stuff for car bumpers and the like. they dry quick and stick well.
Have a good one! Rhys
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Thanks Rhys, I picked up some from the hobby shop the other day to try but just haven't got round to using it yet. Steve |
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neilmny
Unverified New Member Joined: 13 Oct 2011 Location: Melbournes East Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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Steve, you are a true do it yourselfer. I suppose the skills with resins and etc. came from another hobby
Neil.
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Busted! |
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terryd
Member Joined: 14 Dec 2011 Location: sydney Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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how do you stop your mold from leaking please
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Terryd
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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I have two pieces of ply/MDF/laminex that hold the two halves together with a couple of rubber bands. You need enough pressure to hold it tight, but not so much it distorts the mold.
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terryd
Member Joined: 14 Dec 2011 Location: sydney Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Thanks loved your post on 2 piece mold.
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Terryd
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flyonline
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Whorouly Status: Offline Points: 651 |
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Glad to help!
The other reason for doing the two halves together as opposed to two halves of the plug/lure on a flat board is you're guaranteed that they will match up perfectly - any warps etc. don't matter. Putting the mold plus sides in a vice would also work. Steve |
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terryd
Member Joined: 14 Dec 2011 Location: sydney Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Great thankyou this is a briliant site
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Terryd
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seagull
Senior Member Joined: 31 Dec 2011 Location: Esperance WA Status: Offline Points: 746 |
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Like Google wipe lure body down with plastic prep then ad just a touch to your paint that you intened to use and off you go spraying happily away.Well this is what we used to do in the spray shop.You can either get it in a spray can or you can buy it in the half litre counter i think from memory.
Cheerz Seagull
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lure crazy
Senior Member Joined: 19 Dec 2009 Location: Dernancourt S.A Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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Just started moulding lures rather than making the cedar ones and found the same thing with the first few batches. The paint wouldnt take in some small spots ,or would end up with small blisters under the paint after being exposed to heat, even after cleaning down each lure with silicon & wax remover. Ive found the erathane lures need about a week to properly cure and solvents etc to evaporate off before adding a light coat of adhesion promoter to the lure ( plastic flexi primer from auto shops.) Then priming and painting, had no problems as yet since doing this! Probably pumped out around 80 lures doing this now and none have failed, except some times having tiny air bubble holes expose themselves on the surface when sanding the seams off.
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