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3d lure copying/making

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horrorhead View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Aug 2013 at 6:07pm
Check out this link- very interesting


http://www.thingiverse.com/search/basic?q=lure


If I could get the link cop done rightEmbarrassed
Martin-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Screamingreel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2013 at 8:57pm
I have tried but failed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hazmail Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug 2013 at 10:14pm
MMuuuuuuuuuuummmm, very interesting martin, they make all sorts of stuff, including lots of spare parts for their printers to. Will I live to have one of these?????Big smile
Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Strangalures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2013 at 4:37am
Thanks for the link Martin very interesting stuff   
Fish Choking Lures :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lycan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:04am
Only just noticed this post, temporarily grounded for health reasons, so surfing the net about my only activity at the moment.


I love the versatility of my 3D printers for lure prototyping design for the following reasons :


1. You can design any shape limited only by your imagination and then cross referencing against water pressure effects.


2. You can include bib and eyelet slots / holes that are 100 % aligned and of the perfect thickness / diameter.


3. Once you have printed your prototype, if there is a slight change in bib angle, placement, eyelet / tow point location, body length width or curvature it is literally only a 5 minutes job to alter the original file and then print away - So handy not having to reshape the whole lure again from scratch, and you always know that the rest of the lure is identical to the first other than your alteration.


4. Once purchased - Research thoroughly as I spent 6 months learning all the Pro`s & Con`s before purchasing my 1st printer as I didn't wish to be disappointed - Thankfully I got it right.

5. Software is just as important as the actual printer itself, if you don't buy a decent slicing program even the best design will turn out below average - Simplify 3D is the best software I have encountered and well worth the $140 - 200 with magnificent support available, they seem to actually take it personal if there software has issues with a print and they take the time out to ensure the problem gets rectified.

6. ABS & PLA are the two most common materials that I use, PLA is fine for basic prototyping but its a bitch to sand / paint and susceptible to high temperatures - Cost $30 for a kilo of filament. ABS is roughly $40 a kilo of filament, slightly higher if going for ultra density with minimal shrinkage during print cooling ABS can be easily sanded, is very UV resistant as its the same material that Lego blocks are made of, and paint adhesion is very good. You can acetone vapour smooth the finish but as acetone is carcinogenic and you can easily destroy a print using this method - I would advise against it.

7. If thinking of purchasing a 3D printer in the near future, taking price, function ability, results achievable, running costs and after sales service into account than I have never been disappointed with my Flash Forge Creator printers. I still use my original Creator X for basic stuff which has printed over 20 klms of filament and run 2 other Flash Forge Creator Pro`s for my serious designs. Buy direct from the manufacturer in China and delivery to your door within 7 days, 20 minutes to unpack, load filament, level the build plate and its ready to use. Depending on the $US dollar at the time of purchase, you will be looking at anywhere from $900 to $1400 AU.


8. Designing software, well there are numerous open sourced ( Free ) programs available that will get you started - Blender & Meshmixer being the most common. Both have their Pro`s & Con`sand its useful to use one program for some sections, then transfer your file over to the other program for fine tuning.


9. I typically use Cinema 4D for my design work, and although its a high end software still used within the movie industry today, it is brilliant in its versatility, especially for ergonomically designed objects. Takes awhile to learn, and I`m still learning after 5 yrs of 3D designing in my so called spare time. You can learn really quickly on any software as there are hundreds of specific you tube how to vids for every step you will ever need to do - I`m old and stubborn and learnt the hard way originally, but on occasion have been persuaded by the daughter to look it up on youtube.


10. Another great use for these printers is if you wish to print your own mold template for home injection molding. Once I have my finished lure design, I then extract that shape from a block, add some positioning pins & vents and then print the molding block - ensures level join lines along two halves. Once the 1st half mold is printed, I place a printed lure inside the mold, and run a fine line of plasticine along between the lure and mold surface to ensure its a 100% level seal line. Pour your top half of Silicone, and once cured remove printed mold block and then check everything sealing correctly, spray with mold release agent and then pour the second half of your mold.



Apologies for the very long winded post, but am going nuts being stuck at home and just thought if anyone wanted to know just how it may benefit them without shelling out the coin first, then I am more than happy to answer any questions and provide technical assistance .

Cheers

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cod Classic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:53pm
Steve

Great information for anybody looking to play with 3D printing.

Cheers TB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 6:11am
Steve,,

Thank you for your explanation of 3d printing.
just, for consideration, how much does a lure blank cost to print out, say a 10cm lure.
Regards,

Marc - STDZ Lures - Catch fish,fish a STDZ instead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lycan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 2018 at 12:05pm
Hi Marc,

There are a lot of variables in realtion to how much filament will be used according to the the amount of infill you wish to use, or if printing your lure hollow, plus its wall thickness.

However as a general rule for prototyping, with a 5-10 % infill, and a 3 wall thickness, printed at 0.2 microns you will use between 25 to 50 grams of filament, and considering it comes it 1 Kg rolls, thats a lot of printing.

Your print time will vary according to strength of lure, detail required and if the design requires supports, plus actual print speed settings as you can ramp up the speed but that will inevitably shorten the lifespan of your printer.

I manipulate the settings on mine for most lure prints of 10 cm to take roughly 90 minutes, this is to allow for cooling betwwen fine detailed layers to avoid any warpage, and to minimise the amount of sanding required afterwards.

You can actually pause a print at a particular point to position an eyelet and then continue on printing but that comes with a whole new set of problems that can really do your head in.

Ambient humidity also plays hell with your prints if you dont adjust temperatures accordingly.

Sorry for the very long winded reply to such a short question, but as I use these printers everyday, I would rather ensure people know its not just as simple as thats on sale, buy one today and all my problems wll be solved - Research, research and more research.

I am more than happy to help anyone out on this site with any technical questions, or designing queries for anyone who decides to use this technlogy for their designs.

The other handy offshoot of this technology is that if you have made a timber lure that you wish to turn into a mold or make minor adjustments to, there is software that you can take multiple images of the item, run it through the program, do a few adjustments and the printed version will come out dimensional accurate to the item you photographed - Took me 5 months of learning all the do`s & do nots with those programs before I could get perfect replications of items.

I did some rather complicated work on a lure for another member on this site, but will let him post his opinions once he returns.


Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hazmail Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 11:27am
Thanks for your post Steve, really interesting stuff and just like EFPOS machines we will all have to know about this, sooner or later LOL.
I am afraid I am too old to get into this, but still really interested in how it all works.
I remember years ago (back in the late 80's), lure makers were offered a chance to get molds made so they could replicate their lures in plastic instead of wood. I presume the programs to make the molds were the early versions of what we have today for printing plastic etc--I remember they wanted something like $20,000 to make a mold ,,, costs have certainly come down since then, to a point where we can design it ourselves, or go on line and get a design done for very little - then send it to a printer and it's done.
Look forward to more of your posts in the future.
Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 12:34am
3D printers are usfull tool to have these days but there still an emerging tech and require a lot of user savy to get accurate prints another 5 years or more will see the next generation of liquid resin printers come to consumer market then it will be almost as easy as printing your favourit book
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