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easy cast

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Pearcey View Drop Down
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Dave Pearce Lures and OLM Lures

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    Posted: 16 Jul 2013 at 4:51pm
Heres a few lures i moulded about 11 years using Easy Cast , all float with out hooks , but can be made to sink , suspend , or slow float with different size split rings and trebles , they sit tail down with hooks , that is good for twitching, pearcey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2013 at 1:38pm
those are little beauties Dave,there'd be a lot of work development wise to get them to the stage where you've got them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mcleod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2013 at 2:29pm
Dave, that is an interesting idea witht the figure 8 eyelets, I got some at the lure expo to try the same thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pearcey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2013 at 2:35pm
Hello Chris , yes theres a lot of trail and error in the development but i certainly dont have to tell you that mate , we certainly didnt get much help many years ago using urathanes and resins but its good to share our knowledge to other keen lure makers today , the art of lure making in any form is no secret any more , wish i had some one to show me the way back then as im still having nightmares about it all todayLOL, cheers pearcey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2013 at 6:41pm
ah yes I have heard a story about one of your early moldsWinkBig smile . lucky for blokes like me you fellas paved the wayThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2013 at 9:50pm
Been thinking about casting figure of eights in some of mine. Do they hold up well on the fish Pearcey?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pearcey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2013 at 10:18pm
Hello Adrian , they hold up fine on lures with thicker tails such as cod and bass lures, you can get longer figure 8s to suit more  bigger bouyant lures , Lively Lures use figure 8s in different gauge and lengths in there lures , there wont be a problem as long as your resin is strong, cheers pearcey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2013 at 11:20pm
Pilly my mate Grant who makes Chopn'pop lures uses them in his easycast lures,they've caught heaps of big Cod and Bass with no problems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cunji Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2013 at 8:37pm

I've just started to have a go at moulding my own lures.I'm having a few dramas with large seam lines in them.Is there anyway to avoid them?

My moulds aren't perfect as I had trouble with the plasticine/clay I am using for the first stage in making the mould.Can you stick your master on a small piece of clay inside the mould box, then pour silicone in there until it reaches the middle of your lure instaed of using the clay as the entire base.The silicone would be discarded once the second stage of the mould is done.

Would appreciate some advice.The rtv I'm using is a clear silicone from Barnes and the resin is easy cast loaded with q-cell.Bouyancy isn't an issue, I have worked out a good ratio for resin to q-cell.Would pinkysil be a better mould making silicone??
 
Also, I would like to try some figure 8s, who knows of a good supplier of quality figure 8's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2013 at 11:29am
g'day Cunji,you could try putting extra locator lugs closer to the seam,i use ultrasil but sometimes I still get seams that have to be filed or filled, in the past ive used gelsil which seems a little harder and less prone to blowouts.i haven't tried pinkysil but its supposed to be a little harder.you could also try making the walls of the mold thicker or try using a little less easycast.good luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mcleod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2013 at 11:37am
In my experience the only way to avoid flashing on the final lure is to take time and care while making the mould. You could also try a single piece mould which might reduce it for you.
 
As for making the mould, In my opinion is there is no limit to how they can be made and whatever suits you. Me personally, the mould's I have made previously have been two piece because I like to thru-wire all my lures. I way I made them sounds same as what you did. Takes me about half hour to get the first half ready for silicon. I started using Pinkysil but found it cured way too quickly and was too flexible. I went for a addition cure silicon instead (think thats what their called) and was much happier. Takes about 12hrs for the one I use to set and much harder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Strangalures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2013 at 11:41am
All of the above what Chris said and can't recommend u tube enough on casting & moulding
Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cunji Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2013 at 9:10pm
Thanks for the tip
s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p.j. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2013 at 6:17am
[QUOTE=Cunji]

I've just started to have a go at moulding my own lures.I'm having a few dramas with large seam lines in them.Is there anyway to avoid them?

My moulds aren't perfect as I had trouble with the plasticine/clay I am using for the first stage in making the mould.Can you stick your master on a small piece of clay inside the mould box, then pour silicone in there until it reaches the middle of your lure instaed of using the clay as the entire base.The silicone would be discarded once the second stage of the mould is done.

Would appreciate some advice.The rtv I'm using is a clear silicone from Barnes and the resin is easy cast loaded with q-cell.Bouyancy isn't an issue, I have worked out a good ratio for resin to q-cell.Would pinkysil be a better mould making silicone??
 
Also, I would like to try some figure 8s, who knows of a good supplier of quality figure 8's.

 

 Dont now if this is off any help.

But i have made about hundred Silicone molds to cast metal spoons/woblers in. Making the first half, i press the model half way Down in the plasticine. When pressing it Down it will take some material Down just along the edge off the model. That is not really a problem, as the liquid silicone will run and fill it out. Making the other half, thy will fit 100%. But there will be a very fine/thin seam line all around the edge off the Whole where the metal will fload in. This fine line will quit fast be worn away,and that way make a seam on the Lure.
I have found out to smoth/press the plasticine along the model, so there will be now seam line along the Lure. Need to be very very carefull doing that. And make sure the clay is 100% "tight" around the lure, to prevent any seams
Maybe you can make the mold same way, regards your lure is some more thick than a Spoon.
cheers Per
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cunji Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2013 at 8:54pm
Per, that is the way I am making my moulds as well.The clay I have is very sticky and hard to work with.I think I will buy some pinkysil to use instaed of the clay.I was thinking about placing my master on a small piece if clay then pouring pinkysil to the middle of the lure.When that sets I will then pour the first half of the mould.I hope that eliminates any seam lines on the poured lure or minimises them at least.Will try it out , if it works I'll let you know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2013 at 10:39pm
Here's how I've done most of mine, I find it the easiest way to get an accurate parting line - not that I'm any expert by any means, but I have built a couple of fibreglass molds for RC planes and this is the exact same method to get super crisp seams.



If you use car bog, with a bit of care you can take the plug out and then sand the bog down really flat with some fine sandpaper, pop the plug back in again, form the box, then pour the silicon.

Steve
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