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First mould

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sergio_kutz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 9:51am
Here's my first attempt at a silicone mould. I was just about to pour the 2nd layer of silicone and i remembered i hadn't put anything down to stop the 2 layers of silicone from adhering to each other. Looked aroudn the hhouse and couldn't find any vaselene or anything... Was getting desperate and i found some old hair wax. With a quick prayer i smeared it on and poured the silicone on top. This morning and it came out perfectly! Just a few bits stuck on the seam which i cut with a stanley knife.
 
Hoping to pour some tonight! Lego was a good idea, but i think the right size pieces would be better next time (2blocks x 2blocks and about 1cm high)
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pearcey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 11:33am
nice looking mould sergio what resin are you going to use and where are you going to cut the pour hole i would suggest the highest point of the mould right in the middle of its back unless you have another idea, pearcey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 11:43am
Well that's where i'm a bit lost. I've got some Diggers resin (with the catalyst) from Bunnings for the bib which is setting in a seperate mould. Hoping that sets solid enough, but it seems to be slightly flexible still. Will find out if it's good or not when I get home from work. So open to suggestions/feedback/criticism!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Screamingreel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 1:29pm
Like the lego idea
Keep us posted with some more pictures and material used.
Will you need a full wire eyelet body, internally.
Regards John
 
 
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Mcleod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mcleod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 2:11pm
Sergio, been there and done that except I realised I hadn't put anything between the layers until I was about to take it appart. Thankfully they pealed apart ok. Seems once it is set, nothing will stick to the silicon (??).
 
Anyway, keep the pics coming.
 
Angus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 10:05am
The end product. I thought it looked great! It swims like an absolute piece of crap! I've either got to come up with a new way of making the head/bib end more solid, or just remould it without any bib and use it as a sinking minnow with an underwater WTD type retrieve. Can almost do that retrieve with the bib on, but it gets in the way a lot. So will just need to rethink and tinker with a few bits and pieces. Mould worked perfectly tho!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pearcey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 2:34pm
hello sergio im quite curious what you made the lure body out of, nice pearl colour mate, i may be able to help with some of your questions, pearcey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mcleod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 3:03pm
Sergio, if that was straight resin I would think it sink like a rock and have terrible action. Try putting to microballoons in for buoyancy and it should swim better.
 
Angus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 3:39pm
Nah only the bib is resin, the rest is a soft plastic, so there isn't any inherent strength to give it a decent swimming action and support it all. Work in progress...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 3:44pm
heres the microballons and the company who sells em Sergio,they also sell a white polyurethane resin called easycast resin that you'd use with the micro balloons.btw the towing eye on your lure is too high it needs to be closer to the bib.not a bad job though and your mold is a ripperThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 3:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 10:05pm
Ok Just made one that's been modified to be a sub-surface WTD. In other words it sinks so I got rid of the bib and made the rest. All I had to do was fill the bib part in the mould with modelling clay, insert the wiring and pour. As I'm leaving for Hinchinbrook tomorrow for a weeks fishing, this is the only creation I've had time to make. Hopefully it lands a fish or 2!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mcleod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2012 at 1:51pm
Sergio, that looks great I recon, fantastic work. Softplastic style hardbody lures are very effective in my opinion.
 
Angus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2012 at 5:36pm
Pity it swam like an absolute piece of crap. I think it just needs a bit of weight in the 'head' or front end of the lure so i'm going to look at attaching a few split shots to the wiring before i pour it. Starting to figure out weight distribution is quite important for lures. been a really interesting project. First one would sink and didn't have decent force transfer from the bib into the lure. 2nd version would sink too slowly and didn't have the right weighting to get a nice walk the dog action and keep it under the surface of the water. At least I can reuse the wiring, hooks and plastic when it doesn't work out properly.
 
Will be having another attempt at this tonight!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nicho Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2012 at 6:18pm
keep working on it mate.....all looks the part...just needs tuning.....I agree with chris...lower the towpoint closer to the bib.....you keep trying till you get it.....thats the best way to learn mate
Jas
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YA DONT KNOW...IF YA DONT GO...SO GET OUT THERE AND... FISH IT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:12am
Guys another good mold realease is hair spray. Hair spray is basically water based plastic spray a nice thin layer and the come appart nicely. Love the concept of the lure have you got it to swim yet ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:28am
I've found the wiring to be a problem, it's fairly light gauge multistrand wire, and as much, is liable to bend slightly when forming it all and havein the hook bends in the right places. Sometimes there's a slight kink in it after pouring the plastic over it. Now when it comes out it looks straight as an arrow, but soon after having it in the water, as you're pulling the force through the wire, the plastic slightly deforms and will cause the water to pass over it differently. Hence it's like when you've got a plastic on a jig head and it isn't straight, ever twitch will want to move to a certain side, maybe some heavier single strand wire will fix that problem.
 
I tried putting a few split shots onto the wire and this gave it a ncie balance for sinking. However I think the best option would be to mould the lead in the exact shape around the wiring from the start, making everything a bit more sure. Plus they only make small split shots, so i'm having to crimp 3 or 4 onto a bit of wire, doesn't do good things for balancing. I may try using slightly heavier bean sinkers and super gluing them to the wire. Once the plastic is poured over, the glue should be enough to hold it there. Also front treble causes lots of swim problems, especially with the bendy nature of the wire and plastic. makes it easy for the trebles to get caught up. Better off only using one set, or vastly downsizing the gape of the trebles to make it all work.
 
Yes, still a work in progress! Getting there slowly. maybe if i had 2 weeks off work and weekends without millions of things to do i'd be able to get it done, but that's not likely!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 10:36am
I know the feeling never enough time in the day. Have you tried setting the wire in the mold before the pour ? Also with the lead I get a platinium cure silicone and can cast lead into it. If your keen enough make a mold for your weight. Also try to flatten the head like a lipless crank or like the thready buster that is why those lures vibe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sergio_kutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 10:52am
This was more of a swim bait, like a sub-surface WTD, after the bibbed version didn't come off too well. I think i'm going to try the bibbed version again before i go on a trip up north again. I'll attempt to cast the wiring into the resin head so it's solid and the forces go through the bib to help it dive, try some styrofoam attached to the wire to help it float, and then cast the plastic around that. Just the join from resin onto the plastic is a concern, 2 part aryldite may need to be used. The more I talk about it the more want to get it to work!
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