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Help me ID old lures

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    Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 1:30pm
Most of these I already know what they are, but I could be wrong so correct me.  I'll be showing all of them, with their names or without.  So even if you have nothing to offer, there's at least tons of pics to look at.  

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Made by CCBCO, One of the Pikie versions, not sure which.

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Made by CCBCO, Another Pikie, jointed.


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Made by Cisco Kid, do not know name. Not sure of condition, the white film around it is not paint fade, but rather from a tape or fish mucus or something.  

 

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Made By Creek Chub, one of the mice they made.


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Made by Fred Arbogast, Hawaiian Wiggler #2


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Made by Heddon, Head-on Basser, or simply called the "Basser". 

[img]http://i.imgur.com/7O0D6zr.png[/imh]

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Made by Heddon, Zig-Wag.  I think this color scheme was called strawberry.


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Made by Heddon, Baby Zara, Plastic.


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Made by Fred Arbogast, Jitterbug (possibly pre WWII?).  Cats eye and black body paint job.  One is jointed.  


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I'm no sure if all of these have the same maker.   These are a series of 'Oreno' lures.  Bass oreno, midge oreno.....I'm not sure what's what exactly.  

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Do not know.  I think it's rubber.  


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South Bend Lil' Rascal


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Heddon River Runt Spook (I think).  Color scheme unknown.


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Not sure.  Some type of Minnow I think.

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Do not know, can't find any examples of it.  The metal is etched.  


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Do not know.


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No clue.  Covered in a cloth like material.  


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No clue.


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No clue.


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I think it's made in France.  Probably plastic or something similar.  


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Marvel, Silver Chazz (haven't seem many of these)


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Maybe another Heddon Zig Wag?


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Probably a Marty Mouse made by Shakespear.  


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Flap tail mouse made by Heddon, with ears.


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No freakin' Clue.  Made by Val-lur.

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Something Made by Hildebrandt


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No clue.


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Creek Chub Darter Frog


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Poor Pikie?  


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I forget the name, but I know what it is.


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Heddon Crazy Crawler mouse with ears I think.


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I think I knew what it was, not sure.  


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I think it's a Creek Chub mouse.


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Pflueger June Bug


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Made by "EGER", called the 'Dillinger'.


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I think Another EGER piece, not sure what it's called.  Possibly has rhinestone eyes.  


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Creek Chub, Champs-39, I think.


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Paul Bunyan, Lady Bug.


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S3-flatfish


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South Bend, Super Duper 506.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 5:41pm
The one marked LU, you think is rubber is another Helin Flatfish.

The white chalky film on the Cisco is the Plastic degrading, common with early lure made from Tenite and Tenite 2 plastics.
"If you are going to have fun with your rod.. get some wood



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vintager Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 6:01pm
Thanks for the ID.  

I can't recall if it is made out of plastic or not.

I'm not soo sure the chalky film is plastic degrading, because I'm pretty sure it's on the outside of the paint job.  The pictures are much larger than they display on the page.

It's more like tape glue than a chalky substance, except it's not sticky to the touch, but sticks to the lure.  The one minnow lure made in finland has the same stuff on it and I've scrubbed most of it off with q-tips and water, and the paintjob underneath was still good.  So I'm thinking something got on the lures at some point.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horrorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 6:18pm
I had picked up a couple of lures with a white chalky film over them. When I used Qtips and water it all came off revealing 2 lures with perfect paint jobs. These lures were in with other items made from plastic that was disintegrating so maybe the film came from those - interestingly enough, this film didn't attach itself to any metal parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vintager Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 6:34pm
Yeah, I cleaned it up the best I could for now......really good paint job on it still. not a single chip I don't think, still smooth and shiny.  Like a completely different lure.  


It's black, with a silver strip down the back of the eyes, and I think some gold specks on the dorsal.  

I too noticed that there was no film on the metal, but it stuck to the body like a label on a coffee cup.  

I think I found out what it's called....a model 500 jointed cisco kid.....no special name other than that. 

All of these lures are in better shape than they appear, they're just covered in filth and some minor surface corrosion on some metals.  Of course, nothings going to bring the paint back....but the ones in the worst condition, will be restored eventually.    I'm going to sand any wood that needs it, polish any metal that needs it, then give them a nice fresh coat of oil based paint....possibly even a non traditional paint job that you wouldn't have seen on those pieces.    Unless they're worth something worthwhile in their current condition, I really don't see the need in keeping the original paint job on them.  Any I do end up repainting, I will actually use to fish with.

I have to really commend these old lures makers especially on their glass eyes.....I rarely see pieces missing the eyes no matter the shape, they attached those things to last. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fysshe Salmon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 10:16pm
Nice example of the Crazy Crawler mouse, has a flocked finish.Most of the Tenite lures will show some form of Chemical coating over a period of time, it doesn't affect the colour scheme and can be removed with citrus cleaner and a toothbrush.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rivermandave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2014 at 11:54pm
White film is famous on Cisco Kids, MirroLure and Arbogast. Use a wire
 detail brush on them.

A few ID notes for you.

Creek Chub lure model numbers can be identified on this website

http://www.creekspeak.com/

Baby Zara (gold eyes) 1950's

The Jitterbugs are not pre-WWII for sure...maybe late 1950's though.

Oreno's are South Bend

The lure you have ID as a River Runt is probably a Millsite.

Minnow is a 1960's Floating Rapala

"Etched" spinner should say "Al Foss"

"No clue" minnow is a Sears. I used to have one new in pkg.

Jointed "eel" France is a Depose.

"Poor Pikie" should have stamped lip.

"Red Eye" spoon is a Red Eye Wiggler.

This jointed should be a MirroLure.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vintager Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2014 at 11:41am
I had thought the Baby Zara was a bit later than that, 60's or 70's.  But no matter either way....it is one of my favorites.  My father was born in 1945, so anything within 15 or so years after that is probably something he had chosen or bought.  Everything else was all what he got from his father, which is probably most of it.  But even though these were always in the tackle box, we generally used newer lures.  

I don't know what material the Jitterbugs are made of, I know I saw an early catalog with this color scheme.  I honestly don't consider WWII jitterbugs to deserve the praise they get....because there's plenty of older better ones made of actual metal.  It's kind of like "Here's something from around WWII, it's better just because.......even though this other thing is much older".    It's like people try to attach WWII era to anything to make it sound cooler.  I  mean even by production cost alone, metal is more pricey than plastic...more durable....not to mention the metal itself serves an actual function of attracting fish by reflecting light....so to me, the WWII jitterbug is inferior.

I think your ID's are spot on.  The River runt spook may be a millsite instead.  I think it's made out of plastic, and I definitely didn't see that exact color scheme on any other river runt examples.  Still not sure though.  

There is somewhat interesting history on the rapala's made in finland, but nothing too special. they are pretty detailed lures, and seem sturdy too. 

I looked up Al foss but couldn't really find any comparisons.  I can't find any writing on that lure, but it is pretty dirty and stripped.  

The jointed eel depose seems to be missing a piece.

I was just saying poor pikie because of its condition, but yeah I'm pretty sure the lip is marked properly.  There's a few different pikies out there so it's hard to know which is which, especially with no paint.  

Yeah the red eye wiggler.....pretty much worthless, no point in even polishing it.  Will probably keep it for the eyes though, since someone at some point may want to replace one with original eyes.

That probably is a mirrolure (L&S) sinker fish.  don't know what it's made of, seems stone.  definitely one of the ones I'm going to paint.  But I noticed the mirrolures I see, seem to have glass eyes.  This seems to have tack eyes (although they could just be really dirty).





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wheels Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2023 at 5:00am
having the lengths and sometimes the weights can help with narrowing down the names.
The Jiterbug can be narrowed down by age as per the deppness and detail of the eyes, the marks (or lack therof) on the bill, and the screw pattern on the bill.  Patent, no patent, unmarked, or scripted (newest).  I can not determine the eye definition from the pics.

The first Oreno ( assuming it is south bend and not having measurements or confiming the make WITH TACK EYES) can pretty much be dated by the hook cups - if unpainted in this version its made 1943-1950 and if Painted it was made 1935-1942 (approximately)  (the red arrowhead was applied fro the entire tack eye period)

The glass eye Oreno was made in 4 period versions (often called versions 6-9)  made from 1926-1934.  To narrow this down you need to know the taper of the tail (long, mmedium,  or short- as measured by finding the exact point at which the tail meaures 5/8" in diameter and the distance from taht point to the end.  long=3/4", medium=5/8", short=1/2"

--version 6 (1926-1927) Medium taper, late easy off hook eyelet rig (screw eye with open loop and point at end of loop, hook cups not painted
--Version 7 (1927-1930) Short Taper, area around eye shaded, same hook rig.  Hoiiok cup snot painted
--version 8 (1931-1932) same as version 7 but identifier stencilled  on back
--version 9 (1932-1934)  hook cups were painted

Yours is likley version 6 since the eyes are not shaded.  the red head was made or the entire glass eye period.

Carved or press carved eye orenos (1951-1966) should have surface rigged hooks.  Again teh red arrow head was made for the entire carved eye period.

Yes the next lure ios a Helin Flatfish.  I did not look up the letter code but have them somewhere.

The Rapala is ca 1964 as per the painted bill seen in `864 advertisements.

The Spinner is cery likely and early Al Foss with unmarked blade.  They made several metal body lures behind the spinner with flyu tied tails.

There are several I recognize but would have to verify as my memory is not so good anymore.  Some of these would clean up very nicely with some mild polish and a gentle hand on some.  It would help id the minnow at the very least.  the spoon coulld be a Johnson but not enough pics.  The mouse farther down would be easier to confimr with a length.

The Val lur is likley 1930s but the angular head shape is very unusual  If I had more info on the campamy I could look for the patenbts more easily.

The One below the Crazy Crawler is 100 PERCENT made by L&S and is a jointed Mir-o-Lure.  The bent nail used for a tie eyelet is unique to thier hardware.  This one along with many of the plastic ones should polish up decently to look beyter however with tyhis one it will likley come outy a bone color.

The S3 is another Helin Flat Fish The doulbe hook rigs are common on many helin flat fish.

The oldest Super Dupers are painted red on the inside.

As far as Oreno's og - therre are aroudn 4 companies that made very similar "orenos"  Lengths, weights, paint jobs, and shape nuances can help narrow those down.

As far as River Runts Go, multiple companies made similar lures - length, hardware, etc can help narrow those down.  The Milsite versions typically have an eyues screw hook rig with a small cupped washer facing the body.  P&K, Lippy Joe, Tex etc also made similar lures

Early Pikies were not alwaus marked

Well I do nto have time to  verify the others right now but eventually have ma small handfull I have yet to ID nthough out of several hundered lures that I have --- not too bad.


Oh by the way -- DO NOT use a wire brush on the body of the lures.  Use some thing like Mothers aluminum polish and a paper towel,  Once cleaned up you can wash any compound from the hardware with a toothbrush.  As far as the wiggler goes...  since it already has corrosion making it look nice  would be easy and not really hurt any value.  The eyes and wires come off easily by carefully bending one side til you can pop the wire out, remove the ruby and slide the wire out.  Remove all other hardware.  You can then polish it with mothers, or sand the corroded area with 600 grit wet sandpaper and then polish.   It is up to you iwf you ant to go to the brass  all the way around (check with a magnet to see that it is not steel as it should be brass under the plating and not brass plated)  You can also use a polishing wheel if you want to speed things up.  Once you get it looking all shiny, spray it with either lacquer or gloss polyurethane to protect it from corrosion.  (lacquer is technically more correct for the period but the poly sticks better and no one can really tell the difference with out a mass spectrometer..) then put it all back together.  Thew hooks can be cleaned with a dremel using a wire wheel attachment.   Just be careful not to bend the eye wires too much or they can break   In any case you end up with a really nice looking lure even if it no longer has ll or any of the original nickle polish.  The steel core ones can also be polished and definitely need clear coating to prevent rust.



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