lure holder?? |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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Posted: 07 Feb 2017 at 3:35pm |
i am wondering if any of you might be able to think of a better way than i am currently using.
it's for the Etex coating application. my problem comes from my different style of connecting to the hook/lure. i am using the through-the-lure design, where my line runs right through my lure and connectes to a swivel. the swivel pulls up through the lure body and the hook connects to the bottom of the swivel under the lure. i use this method for a couple reasons. one being so i am fighting just the fish. my line is right to the hook in the mouth of the fish. when a fish is on, the lure will ride up the line. that gives a truly positive anchor to the fish, and you feel exactly just the fish. also, the fish cannot use the lure to pry the hook out it's mouth. our trout do that very well. and they will jump, shaking their head like crazy, to throw the hook. this prevents all that. the second, and even more important reason, is that should the line snap, be it from a snag or a large fish, the lure is not lost, as it floats up to the surface, free of the line and hook. so, that explains why i use this design. sorry for the long explanation. a negative of this way of making my lure though, i have found, is in the holding of the lures for the Etex application. not having eye-screws or wire loops to clamp to for coating and drying/rotating, there comes a problem. i use a small dowel jammed into the hole that runs through the body. i use that for holding while painting. and then i just leave it in there and clamp to the rotator for coating and drying. a problem i then had, was once in awhile, the etex would find it's way into the hole from below, or rundown the cup. it would then cement the dowel in as well, and that would be next to impossible to get out. many times, i'd just snap it off and then have to try to drill it out. that usually results in really wrecking the hole though. at first, i was coating the lure, then, when dry, i would coat the hole and the cup last. but after too often having the etex cement the dowel in, i changed to coating the cup and the hole first. this way i could coat around the lower end of the hole on the body a little. that way when i then apply the etex to the main body, i can try to avoid getting too, too close to the hole opening. this is working, alot better than the other way for sure. it just means 2 processes of Etex coating and drying. a slight inconvience/extra work, but that's probably the price to pay for using that damn hole-through design. it's much more work in every way, and maybe not even worth the effort, but stubborn is a trait that Pops handed down. the way i am doing it now might just be the way that will result in the least amount of overall problems. maybe i have figured it out. just thought i would throw it out there and see if any of you have any ideas/suggestions. is there anything anyone has found that Etex doesn't stick to? that i could use as a holder jammed into the hole. or any ideas for other ways of doing this altogether? just thought i'd ask. i will add some pics showing my process and helping to explain the description a little better. |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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ok, here's the connection design i am using.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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beer-breath
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beer-breath
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just using the snap to hold the swivel in place to show. can't run that way if i want the lure to be free in the line.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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a little overboard with pics showing a hole in a lure, but hey, lures pics are always good, right.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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here's an idea how they are held.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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sometimes the etex would get up in the lower hole.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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so after the original problems of etex getting on the dowel, i came up with this.
i made a holder, and i coat the cups and the holes first. i mount this whole holder onto my rotator. |
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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and i coat a little extra on the body around the underside hole, so that i don't have to too close to the hole when coating the lure body on the second go.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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this way has for the mostpart pretty much solved the earlier problem i was having, with the etex cementing the dowel into the hole.
it's main pain, is the having to do two processes of etex application. one for the cup/hole and a second for the main body. but there's really no way around that, having chosen this hole-through design. just thought i would throw it out there and see if any wiser minds come up with other ways of doing this.
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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what i was doing originally, was clamping the lure into the rotator this way, and coating the whole thing all at once. then i would do the hole later, and sometimes just use epoxy for coating the hole.
but the etex would get on the dowel holder and cement it in. is there anything i could use in place of a wood dowel that etex wouldnt cement in? probably not i am guessing.
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puglee62
Stall Holder Fugly Lures Joined: 03 Feb 2010 Location: ipswich Status: Offline Points: 7933 |
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how would screw eyes go?,perhaps you could coat the thread with vaseline or something
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that's no how ye make porridge!
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grey nomad
LureLovers.com Fanatic Joined: 18 May 2010 Location: Maryborough Status: Offline Points: 1146 |
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Shape your body then drill hole, get some plastic (not wax) straws to suit hole (a slightly loose fit), you can get drill bits that run to points of a mm to get right sizing, then paint lure, then with 30 min Z Poxy (good stuff, made in US) coat and seal inside off hole with piece of wire and slide straw in carefully, leave an inch sticking out each end, by the time you have done 6 lures the Z Poxy will have gone off, find or make round object to stick up straw, Etex to your hearts content, leave straws in but trim neat to holes. All should be nice and neat ?? The straws will eventually wear out but the holes are sealed so no probs. This is just an idea you can run with ??
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Gristy
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beer-breath
Unverified New Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: British Columbi Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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great tip, nomad.
I had considered using a straw insert for the holes, or something heavier, like the inside of a pen, the thick plastic tube the ink is in. I like your solution, of leaving the tube long so that the etex touches it, and not the holding dowel. that would definitely work. |
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grey nomad
LureLovers.com Fanatic Joined: 18 May 2010 Location: Maryborough Status: Offline Points: 1146 |
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These would be perfect for you, get em from $2 shop, slightly rough outer surface, 4mmOD, 2mmID swivel won't go through hole but maybe ? just use longer mono between swivels ? At 150mm (6 inches) long you can still hang on for Etex. Another thing bit larger ID would be riser tubes for home irrigation etc etc, the list goes on. Just make sure you don't use any hard Acrylic style tubing, very brittle and will crack, also will melt with any spirits, thinners etc. Has to be a greasy plastic, (nylon milk bottle stuff) lots to choose from. Very practical lures for your type fishing. Good luck . |
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Gristy
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