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Suspending lures

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Johno100 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Mar 2017 at 6:23pm
Ok dont know how practical this is but I would like to know if its possible or anyone makes a suspending lure. I used locally made lures and got the crap belted out of me on an 80+ barra session by a 1.5 mtr suspending 110mm lure imported.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Fysshe Salmon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2017 at 7:02pm
Making a neutral buoyant lure can be very frustrating! Too many variables, density and type of timber, weight of hooks and rings, fresh or salt water. Sometimes you can fluke it but usually they sink like a stone! LOL... There used to be sticky weights you could fit to the belly of a lure until they suspended, called "Suspendots" I don't know if they are still available..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2017 at 7:55pm
yeah mate I hear where ya coming from but I was thinking a wood type loaded up with sealers and paint that gets neutral buoyancy at certain depth

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2017 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by Johno100 Johno100 wrote:

yeah mate I hear where ya coming from but I was thinking a wood type loaded up with sealers and paint that gets neutral buoyancy at certain depth

you'd have to carve your lures exactly the same dimensions ,use exactly the same amount of sealer and paintand exact weight in the hangers  each time ,you'd only have to use timber from a different part of a tree for this to fail.much easier to use weights as suggested by FyssheWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 3:27am
yeah I get what your saying mate but would you get that much of a variation ? if i could suspend at 1.5 metres give or take 200 that would do the job and put the lure in the zone where it could dive and return. just thinking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 6:16am
yeah you will sorry,you'll find that every lure has to be tweaked quite a bit and its pretty time consuming.i think i saw something on you-tube about making suspending lures ,i'll see if i can find it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote samurai Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 9:37am
I sell suspending Chinese plastic barra lures under the Samurai brand LOL I just buy the suspending unpainted blanks from china and paint them myself. BITD when I first did the JaySea Mundi moulded lure, which were supposed to be suspending lures even Livily Lures could not get them right over 70% floated. There are just to many variables as the other guys have pointed out to making then in wood, weighted dots are probably the easy way to go, Mo Tackle have them. Good Luck.
 
Cheers Warren
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 10:40am
Okey dokey. I get it now guys and cheers for that warren looked at Jann site at blanks and have seen the hungarian vid of 2 part weighted rattled lures. makes for interesting stuff 
cheers for your input fellas
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ducks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 11:06am
Those dots don't do much on timber lures. Better off twisting wire or similar round hook shanks.
Balancing timber lures to suspend (I prefer just to slow them to very slow rise myself which is easier) is much easier than plastic. Plastic has next to no margin for error. A floater can turn to a sinker just by changing one hook. Put a set of ST66s on your mates lure and see how it goes. Timber lures will carry good strong hooks and rings - double rings if that's your go - and they'll still slow rise off of the shit you drag them in to when required.
Ps. I still love plastic lures - but it's horses for courses and knowing what you can do with what you have at hand.
Pps. My timber lures outfished all the suspending Jap lures last weekend. I'm not about to throw out my jackals though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Doc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 11:16am
A lure body still has to be boyant to hold up all the steel / stainless parts 7.85 /7.96 specific gravity(SG). Then you have saltwater with a SG of 1.028 and if thats not enough to drive a lure builder mad , water reduces in SG as it gets warmer. So a lure that suspends at 10deg C will sink at 24deg C. Air/water pressure is another variable that tends to effects the size of hollow body lures a little more than timber.

 Hi Ian, I do remember the suspenda dots, have not seen them in 15 years or more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 11:24am
theres another variable right there as most of us have freshwater test tanksLOL.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 11:30am
Yesh Ive found adding inline hooks or larger trebles and heavier rings have affected lures attitude as well as buoyancy. Even snaps instead of tying does this too sometimes putting head down. Hardware makes a big difference. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 11:31am
Originally posted by samurai samurai wrote:

f. BITD when I first did the JaySea Mundi moulded lure, which were supposed to be suspending lures even Livily Lures could not get them right over 70% floated. 
 
Cheers Warren
i got about the same percentages with the poly molded ones i make too Warren, trouble with polyurethane molded ones is all you need is a fluctuation in weather and you've lost or gained more bouyancy. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 12:26pm
Jeez thats a lot of variables there. Now Im starting to see the extent of the problem. Am thinking of things like lures backing up and head up attitude. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 6:15pm
Hi Chris If you are using PU then you have a whole lot of extra issues with maintaining SG and density throughout the lure body , post mould expansion and bubble coalesce just a few of them I reconmend air conditioning and turning it on at least 1 hour befor moulding if you have an old fridge that will run at 15deg C keep your Iso & polyole in exspecially if they are in 20 lt drums 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glider Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 9:29pm
Johno,I've done experiments with suspending wood lures. I tried all temperature variables-water temp,lure temp etc. Actually got a lure to suspend when water temperature became layered. In practice this is never going to happen. To give an idea of variables,the changes in temperature of lure alone from going from from house to bag to river to submersion will be enough to negate all other variables even if by some miracle they all come together....glider
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 9:51pm
Yeah Glider Im getting it all now. I didnt think it would be so complicated. i understand the temp and salinity affecting buoyancy but thought when a lure had a predetermined profile and weight distribution it would behave in a predictable way and depth variations would be minimul, but obviously not.
cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by Doc Doc wrote:

Hi Chris If you are using PU then you have a whole lot of extra issues with maintaining SG and density throughout the lure body , post mould expansion and bubble coalesce just a few of them I reconmend air conditioning and turning it on at least 1 hour befor moulding if you have an old fridge that will run at 15deg C keep your Iso & polyole in exspecially if they are in 20 lt drums 
i keep the chemicals cool and also degass,unfotunately this is Queensland Doc and no airconLOL.i dont really try to do neutrally bouyant stuff anymore anyways.thanks for the advice mate thoughThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 10:24pm
Originally posted by Johno100 Johno100 wrote:

Yeah Glider Im getting it all now. I didnt think it would be so complicated. i understand the temp and salinity affecting buoyancy but thought when a lure had a predetermined profile and weight distribution it would behave in a predictable way and depth variations would be minimul, but obviously not.
cheers
johno
if your not doing a lot of lures its still worth your while mate ,maybe carve your lures from a denser material say brown beech ,white beech,silky oak(yes silky oak)etc,and drill a hole in the centre of the lure near the middle hanger that you can add split shot to,paint her all up add split rings hooks bib etc then give it a test.If your lucky it'll be neutrally bouyant straight off the bat but probably it wont,this is where we add just a pellet of split shot to the hole and keep adding till its neutrally bouyant.once youve got it just add some araldite to keep all the pellets from dropping out. if the hole for the pellets is close to the hanger then it should impact least on the action.
(well thats the theory anyway) experimentation is the key to luremaking its why we keep doing itDeadConfusedLOLThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote puglee62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2017 at 10:26pm
Originally posted by puglee62 puglee62 wrote:

Originally posted by Johno100 Johno100 wrote:

Yeah Glider Im getting it all now. I didnt think it would be so complicated. i understand the temp and salinity affecting buoyancy but thought when a lure had a predetermined profile and weight distribution it would behave in a predictable way and depth variations would be minimul, but obviously not.
cheers
johno
if your not doing a lot of lures its still worth your while mate ,maybe carve your lures from a denser material say brown beech ,white beech,silky oak(yes silky oak)etc,and drill a hole in the centre of the lure close as the middle hanger that you can add split shot to later,paint her all up add split rings hooks bib etc then give it a test.If your lucky it'll be neutrally bouyant straight off the bat but probably it wont,this is where we add just a pellet of split shot to the hole and keep adding till its neutrally bouyant.once youve got it just add some araldite to keep all the pellets from dropping out. if the hole for the pellets is close to the hanger then it should impact least on the action.
(well thats the theory anyway) experimentation is the key to luremaking its why we keep doing itDeadConfusedLOLThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 7:33am
Cheers for that Chris am going to give it a go live in a forest with natives blackwoods and heavy timbers but there is a lot of pine here as well so will be attacking some just gotta rerig some bench tools to make life a bit easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hazmail Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by Fysshe Salmon Fysshe Salmon wrote:

Making a neutral buoyant lure can be very frustrating! Too many variables, density and type of timber, weight of hooks and rings, fresh or salt water. Sometimes you can fluke it but usually they sink like a stone! LOL... There used to be sticky weights you could fit to the belly of a lure until they suspended, called "Suspendots" I don't know if they are still available..


Some good advice here Johno, from everyone. I have had a few goes with small timber lures (for Bream) and as most are saying, very frustrating-  What floats in salt will suspend half way up an estuary and sink like a brick at the back, depends of the salt content--even with advice on salinity (quoted @ 3%) it's still nowhere near it, salt seems usually to be more like 2%.
A jar of water (salt or fresh) a set of scales and ''Archimedes Principle'' is a good quick way to work out how much weight a lure, (wood or plastic) will take before sinking.
Good luck with it--Pete  Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by hazmail hazmail wrote:

[QUOTE=Fysshe Salmon] Making a neutral buoyant lure can be very frustrating! Too many variables, density and type of timber, weight of hooks and rings, fresh or salt water. Sometimes you can fluke it but usually they sink like a stone! LOL... There used to be sticky weights you could fit to the belly of a lure until they suspended, called "Suspendots" I don't know if they are still available..


Some good advice here Johno, from everyone. I have had a few goes with small timber lures (for Bream) and as most are saying, very frustrating-  What floats in salt will suspend half way up an estuary and sink like a brick at the back, depends of the salt content--even with advice on salinity (quoted @ 3%) it's still nowhere near it, salt seems usually to be more like 2%.
A jar of water (salt or fresh) a set of scales and ''Archimedes Principle'' is a good quick way to work out how much weight a lure, (wood or plastic) will take before sinking.
Good luck with it--Pete  Wink

Thanks Pete for the good wishes,its been a real eye opener as I thought that really only wood density and hardware would truly affect the buoyancy but so many variables makes it a daunting task 
But will soldier on
Thanks 
Johno 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 2:12pm
Then I have 1 last curly one. Is laminating timber a possibility or would I just end up with spinners lol 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote grey nomad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 2:15pm
Hi Johno, you have all the bad news so thought these few things might assist you with the weight/weighing bits.
Gold scales, you can weigh finished timber lure bodies, lead dots and hardware etc accurately.
ebay 370738586062  Have had my set for 8yrs and no probs.
The 8mm lead dot weighs .6gr
 


Golf club lead weights ebay 401136740781 and a small cheap set of wad punches 3-10mm that work well, keep them only for lead, gives you all the variables you need in weights.
Not a big outlay for the three, will save you hours of muckin around and make life easier.
Good luck Smile.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 2:26pm
Thank you so much for that really appreciate it, true gentleman. Will make my life easier as I get into this and dont want to outlay megabucks on equipment but seriously want to carve and shape. As a lover of FNQ lures and having lived in Yeppoon and Darwin and Derby it is these lures that I really love.
Once again cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote al49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2017 at 7:24am
being a beginner to lure making and have only popped out around 30 lures I have been using kingbilly pine ,and huon pine lately ,made a few 100mm deep diver lures for barra and jacks ,tested them last week hopeing they would be slow risers as I like this action for snag fishing ,out in salt with huon pine ones they suspended with the tail down ,complete shock for me to fluke that.i swapped over to number 4 6x trebles and they floated up quicker ,one no4 at front no2 at back and they float up tail down which isn't bad,two no2 s and they suspend .I am very happy with the huon pine ,havnt got much of it but it will be used for these lures .very dence timber but easy to use.finding it is hard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horrorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2017 at 10:51am
Originally posted by Johno100 Johno100 wrote:

Then I have 1 last curly one. Is laminating timber a possibility or would I just end up with spinners lol 

Laminating lures has been done quite a bit with some very spectacular results. Needless to say but use a waterproof glueWinkLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johno100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2017 at 4:26pm
Ive noticed some recently that work beautifully but wouldnt like to try and reproduce too often lol
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